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Per a previous string, I am attaching a PDF of the original manual from my boat. It's an interesting relic of possibly early (1980s) word-processing technology with numerous (quaint) typos. Even though it has an interesting selection of topics (left wondering sometimes why one thing was included and not another), it also has some great info. For example: Under "VII. How to Get the Best of Your Boat; A. Sail Trim", pp 12-14, there is some great stuff on the unique wind dynamics and mainsail trimming of the Kelt 7.60 as well as a bit of a primer on sail trimming in general. (Notice the alignment typos in the pg 14 trimming guidelines per wind speed. Ah yes, 1980s word processing technology [smile].)
At the beginning of the manual, the Intro Letter and Sect I. "Your New Kelt Arrives" are a nostalgic look back at a different time in the sailboat manufacturing and market era. The manual may be a good reference point to any discussions as well. Enjoy! - David Wysocki, "Moon Chaser" - Frenchman's Bay, Lake Ontario, Pickering ON.
Owners_Manual_-_Kelt_760.pdf
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Administrator
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Thanks again for the owners manual. The section on reefing the main explains some of my questions as to my additional rigging that isn't attached to anything. I plan on getting some line and hooking up the reefing point when I get a chance. Should be very useful. Lots of great info in there.
Winds have been relatively light where I'm based now (up the Potomac from the Chesapeake Bay) so haven't had a chance to reef lately - or follow the trim instructions which are also interesting. In fact, lately I've been single-handing with just the jib. Very easy with the roller furling and moves pretty well in light winds.
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Mark,
I have one reefing line in mine, and it works very well. I also ran short sections of line through the smaller grommets, knotted on each side, that can be used quickly and easily to snug the bottom roll of the sail once you have reefed it to the hook on the boom and tightened the reefing line.
When the wind is up, it is much more pleasant, and sails plenty fast. I was worried that I would give away too much power (and hence speed)- not really the case.
I have a lot of the original manuals and spec sheets that came with my boat, and would be willing to try scanning if any are interested.
Ben
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Administrator
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Good idea to knot line in the reefing grommets. I'm looking forward to hooking up my reefing lines and getting out in some heavier winds.
Feel free to send or post any kelt manuals or spec sheets you have. I'd love to see them and I can try to put them or link them to the site. We currently have the sales brochure and the owners manual that David posted.
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Folks - I did reef my main last Saturday using the 3-line system provided by Kelt/Isomet. Had a few people out and wind speed forecast was all over the place (b/t <10 to >15, checking both Environment Canada and NOAA), but direction was ESE backing to E. Where I am on Lake Ontario (Just E of Toronto), that means around 15kt winds traveling the length of the lake = pretty deep/high waves, and given passengers' inexperience, I though I'd at least reduce some of the heel for them and not expect to change the headsail once out. (Still had 2 folks eliminating their stomach contents and the other gritting his teeth in fear most of the time. Though they were good sports and hung in there.)
The results of my reef were a bit rough looking, though I did it generally correctly. I have original green, yellow and red lines. Mine was rigged with yellow as the outhaul (middle line). Too bad, thinking it'd be fun to have green be no reef, yellow (caution) be 1st reef, and red (panic [smile]) be the 2nd reef. Since each has plenty of line, and I reefed before departing (no need to try running the reefing line aft) it didn't matter practically which colour to use. I followed the manual directions as such:
1) Release the green lever below the gooseneck
2) Untie the securing knot on the bitter end of the green reefing line at the boom aft end, being careful 1st to pull plenty of line out to avoid losing the line into the boom
3) Running the line from the boom aft end, up to and through the 1st crinkle, back down, around the boom,
4) Then running it up and through the crinkle at the foot of the sail, (That crinkle is located in a straight vertical line down from the upper reefing crinkle and is smaller in diameter than the reefing crinkle on my sail)
5) Tied a knot at the bitter end of the line right at at the lower crinkle.
6) Hooked the leech (mast end) reefing crinkle under/onto the gooseneck reefing hook. For some reason I don't recall I chose the port side hook.
7) Then pulled the green line taught at the mast and secured it with the green lever.
8) I too tied a couple of my sail ties through a couple of the other lower crinkles and around the boom to help secure the excess sail along the boom.
What I didn't like is when raising the sail and winching it tight, it wasn't fully taught along both the luff and foot edges. I think I needed to diddle a bit more, between the halyard and reefing lines, or now that I think of it maybe release the outhaul a bit, and maybe even work with the boom vang. I'd also have to check where I was with the topping lift. (It helps the thinking to write this stuff out.) I think some combination or one of these items would have given me taught edges on both the luff and foot. As it was I wasn't getting much power from the bottom 1/4 to 1/3 of the main and the telltale there was slack. (Plus the lack of full trim was the coarse-looking part and a bit embarrassing looking). I'm glad to hear of Ben using ties along the boom, as I will be more aggressive with these next time.
All in all, it was a great opp to go through reefing using the Kelt/Isomat system and a 1st step to tweaking for better performance and trimming. I think, given the reduced mainsail power (due to my trimming issue, vs. the actual reefing) my boat was a bit more tedious to steer, more quick to go off bearing. I kept my Genoa up (I'm guessing it is =/>150%, so the boat was probably a bit out of balance between the head and main sails affecting the ability to more easily stay in a straight line. Ah, so much to try and learn and so little season left up here.
PS: I found a great area on the US Sailing website for calculating an array of performance areas. I'll post that on a new thread. It's pretty interesting to plug in our various Kelt 7.60 specs and see what comes up for areas like speed, stability angle ("angle of vanishing stability", or the angle a boat can heel and still right itself), capsize ratio, motion comfort, etc, etc.)
Good, safe sailing! - David (Frenchman's Bay, Lake Ontario, Canada)
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Dave,
A couple thoughts-
First, if the wind is such that you need to reef the main, then you definitely don't want to be using the genoa; you would be definitely out of balance with a 150 up front and a reefed main in back.
Even if you try to depower that by roller furling, its shape will be quite poor once it gets more than 25% rolled up; much better to be using the working jib, which by itself is better suited to sailing with a reefed main, and if you have to furl it some in a real blow, is still a bit more efficient than an genoa rolled up 75% of the way.
Second, I am a little confused by your description of how you routed your reefing line. My reefing line is always in. From the rear of the boom, the rope comes out, goes up to the large grommet (cringle), and back down where it is tied around the boom with a bowline. With this arrangement, after you drop the sail with the halyard, hook the leech to the gooseneck hook, and retighten the halyard, you can then tighten that reefing line, which has the effect of pulling that first reefing cringle both downward, and rearward, essentially serving the purpose of an outhaul. I find that it helps to use the winch on the mast to pull that really tight, before latching the clutch. It is a good idea to further secure that grommet to the boom with another line to protect against the clutch at the front of the boom slipping.
Lastly, for the lines or sailties that you use to gather the excess sail at the boom, don't be so aggressive that those bear any stress from the sail- they should only bundle what is loose, not hold it down to the boom against the force of the wind. I am told that is a likely way to tear the sail.
Your topping lift should be loose when sailing of course, but if you have to reef while underway, you may want to temporarily tighten it up to prevent the boom from dropping into the cockpit when you lower the halyard.
Ben
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Locked
